The secret to going blonde
Updated: Jan 8, 2020
Choosing the right hair colour can be difficult and now due to the rise of techniques and services available from around the globe it has made it even harder to choose the right technique. It has also made it difficult to fully understand what all of the hairdressing terms and jargon actually mean. This is why we at Rose & Wild have taken the time to break down these commonly used phrases such as Balayage, Ombre, lowlights and Scandi Blonde. We have spoken to 5 of our elite colour specialists to help guide you in the right direction and ensure you are making the best choices for you and your hair.
First things first..................
What is Balayage?
“Balayage is Parisian technique which gives a softer, tonal and more blended highlighted result”. Says Siobhan Co founder of Rose & Wild. “It is a lower maintenance colour that is kind on the hair even when going blonde. You can achieve effects such as Ombre and Ecaille with this technique. Balayage can be applied with a full head or half head coverage and be used in conjunction with a root colour also".
"Balayage can give several different effects depending on how it is done” adds Hannah our hair and colour artist. “ It could be to add texture and dimension, contour the face or give a softer highlighted result. It really is very versatile" she explains “Depending on the length of your hair and your future cuts, Balayage can last up to half a year maybe even longer in some cases. However I would advise having a partial or half head Balayage top up in between this to keep it looking at its best".
What is the difference between a half head and a full head?
“A full head will cover the whole head, so everything at the back, underneath, sides and the top. Whereas a half head will mainly consist of the hairline,top and sides.” says Hannah
"Even if your colour is focused on just the tips and the ends of your hair, if it is applied over the whole head it would still be classed as a full head” explains Siobhan.
Can you cover grey hair with Balayage?
“You can blend in your greys with Balayage but it will not cover fully" says Hannah. She goes on to explain that "you can have a global or root colour add on which will cover the greys whilst still having Balayage on the mid-length and ends of your hair. This is great if coverage of white hair is a must for you".
Can Brunettes have Balayage?
Samuel our hair artist and colourists says "you Absolutely can !
Balayage on a brunette base will look beautiful and the possibilities are endless. Whether you want a face framing contour or a lighter Balayage all over there is something for every brunette. Balayage doesn't have to mean blonde, it can be any colour including lighter brown bronzing effects or a brighter colour tone like copper".
How do you know which type of balayage would suit me?
"To decide this I would look at your skin tone, eye colour, hair density (thick/fine, hair length, follicular density (how much hair you have, colour of your hair currently, condition of your hair, face shape and how you style your hair yourself" Says Hannah.
“Balayage can be applied on long hair and shorter haircuts such as bobs but we would always place it in a way to suit your hair cut and hair texture“ adds Siobhan.
“The overall effect of Balayage is softer and more seamless than foils but how much of it is applied and where it should be applied would be decided in your personalised consultation within our boutique”
H.I.G.H.L.I.G.H.T.S. & F.O.I.L.S
What effect do highlights give to the hair?
"Highlights are a timeless colour technique using a foiling method. It can give you a multitonal blonde, Caramel, Brunette tones or alternative shades. It gives a naturally highlighted effect that results in highs and lows throughout the hair. Blondes can lighten much brighter in a foil compared to Balayage" says Siobhan "but it can be slightly higher maintenance" she adds "it really depends on how many you have and how drastically different you want the end result to be compared to your natural colour".
How often do you need High-lights done?
"Generally you need them done every 6 - 16 weeks" says Hannah she also mentions that “We can adapt highlights to suit every hair type. Whether it being more piecey to show in curly hair, or fine to give a natural soft effect. Highlights are very very versatile and individual to you".
what is the difference between High-lights and Low-lights?
"Highlights are when we are using a colour to lighten or enhance your current colour and Low-lights are using a slightly darker colour to tone down, enhance or soften the current colour. Using both of these will create a soft, natural finish" says Hannah
Can you have a global colour with Highlights?
"If you are looking to change your natural colour or give a higher coverage of any grey/white hairs You can always have Highlights in combination with a global or regrowth colour" says Samuel.
What are Partial Highlights?
"Partial coverage of Highlights are for when you are only wanting a few scattered throughout the parting. This will give minimal global change but is great if you are looking for something subtle or if you are looking to top up your Highlights in between appointments" says Siobhan.
What is a scandi Blonde?
Rachael our colour specialist says ”It is a global application of Blonde that requires the highest of maintenance”
“It`s a platinum colour that really is the ultimate coverage of blonde and not for the faint hearted. Think Gwen Stefani or Lady Gaga" adds Siobhan “Even the likes of Michelle Williams, katy perry and Cara Delevingne have tried it before”
How often do you need to have it done?
“It is a high maintenance colour so you would need to have it done every 4-6 weeks to ensure the colour looks at its best. If it is not done regularly then the hair can end up looking uneven, patchy and also ruin the condition of your hair says” Rachael.
Will a Scandi blonde ruin the condition of my hair?
Rachael comments “ pre lightner especially global application will cause sensitivity to the hair so it is important to follow aftercare recommendations such as using the right prescribed shampoos and treatments and I always recommend to use a Smartbond reconstructive treatment when colouring”.
“we offer complimentary consultations to everyone so if you are worried about your hair or would like some aftercare advice we would love to help“ says Siobhan.
How do you know if a Scandi Blonde will suit me?
"During our consultations we will access your skin tone and eye colour to determine if the service is right for you. We will then ensure the final tonal result is perfect for you and your skin tone. we can formulate lots of different shades using a personalised mix of colour. We would create a totally bespoke blonde for you and your hair“ says Rachael.
Siobhan then adds "I find as a general rule that lighter eyes do sit better with global platinum blondes but dependent on your personal style and how you wear your makeup there are exceptions to this rule. So bring in any images of blondes you like and we can advise you".
Do I need a Toner with a Scandi blonde?
"When the global bleach is first applied it can appear raw/ brassy and a little yellow so the toner is when we will add the right shade of Blonde on top. This is the personalised mix of colour I was talking about earlier. This will give you the healthiest and most natural looking colour” says Rachael.
I am naturally dark, Can I have a Scandi Blonde?
"Being naturally darker can mean it can be higher maintenance to go Scandi Blonde. This is because of the extreme contrast of the dark next to the blonde when it grows out. However this does not mean it is not possible” says Siobhan.
“Everyone has natural Pigments in their hair. Sometimes it can be just as hard to create a cool Scandi blonde on someone who is naturally light as on someone that is naturally darker” says Rachael. She goes on to say
"It will all depend on what we can see in your hair after your hair assessment. If the hair condition allows it we may need to do a double application to get to the lightness that is needed”
Samuel then adds “Blonde doesn't need to be out of the question however there are lots of IF’s and BUT’s. Factors such as; How much previous colour build up is there, was the previous colour professional or bought over the counter, is the desired shade drastically different to your hair now? In lots of cases blonde is achievable but you may need to take baby steps to get there and create a realistic hair journey with your colourist. I would always encourage not compromising on your hairs integrity by pushing it too far over trying to achieve a blonde that's not going to work out". Says Samuel.
F.R.E.Q.U.E.N.T.L.Y A.S.K.E.D Q.U.E.S.T.I.O.N.S
What is the difference between a toner and a global colour ?
"A Toner will only work on changing the tone of already lightened and pre lightened hair. We can add tones of Creamy Vanilla, White Ash, Mauve, Pearl and many more.
A global colour is what we use on natural hair to cover white/grey hair or adjust the depth or tone softly. To gain a platinum result you must always pre lighten the hair before colouring. Using a toner as a global colour alone will not give you enough lift to create a Scandi type Blonde.” says Rachael
How long does a toner last?
"A toner will last up to 4 weeks however there are lots of factors that can reduce this. Some include the porosity and condition of your hair, the aftercare used at home and how frequently the hair is shampooed. We will always give a guideline of how long we think your toner will stay at its freshest depending on your individual hair type and lifestyle! “ says Samuel.
Does pre lightner damage your hair ?
Emilie another of our amazing colour specialists says that “Bleaching agents can be hard for your hair and can make your hair dry or frizzy-looking.
By using good products and good techniques, you can keep your hair healthy, hydrated and looking its best even if you decide to go lighter.
In fact, bleaching can have some advantages: the process can expand your individual hair strands and often make your hair appear thicker and fuller.”
Do you need to use bleach to lighten your hair ?
“It is not always necessary”, it will depend on your natural colour, the history of your hair and how light and bright you want to be.
It’s impossible to make your hair a lighter shade without using an oxydant agent but we do now have different products to lift hair without using bleach like a high lift dye or even a regular permanent dye." says Emilie
Siobhan says "However If you are looking for ultra cool results then pre lightner is generally going to give you the best finish." Emilie agrees and says
"I find that Balayaging a pre lightner can be much kinder on the hair than using a foil so it`s a much softer way of using a pre lightner if you need that extra lift".
What is a smartbond reconstructive treatment?
Emilie says that "Smartbond reconstructive treatment is designed to protect and strengthen your hair during technical/colour services.
The system consists of 3 components. The first 2 being used in salon and the 3rd one at home. It is very easy and quick to apply".
Samuel adds "The Maleic acid in Smartbond step 1 gets mixed into the colour and helps in the process of protecting and repairing weakened bonds during colouration. Step two is applied pre-shampoo at the backwash and contains Ceramides which help to smooth and keep the cuticle down. This helps to strengthen, add smoothness, shine and retain moisture".
MY Blonde goes brassy sometimes, how can I stop this ?
Samuel says "Kerastase Blond Absolu - Cicaflash is amazing! It's a pale violet shade conditioner that's packed with amino acid, so not only does it effectively neutralise your brassy tones but it's really great at restoring the moisture levels in your blonde tresses! If you feel it needs a little more intervention, booking for our creative toning service will give your hair a gorgeous personalised tone in between your colour services. You can add a smart bond reconstructive treatment for the ULTIMATE restorative hair pick-me-up".
We hope this has helped to demystify some of those unanswered colour questions however if you have anymore please drop us a line on
email@example.com, simply book in for a complimentary face to face consultation in our beautiful boutique or why not ask to fill in one of our online consultation forms prior to making your appointment.
WE ARE THE SALON THAT LISTENS
For more inspiration check out our insta @roseandwidhair
and follow our inspirational pinterest boards.
If you would like to find out a little more about our specialist colour artists please take a look at our Artist Bio.